Shekhawati Havelis :The Open Art Gallery of Rajasthan

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Shekhawati reminds us that: Art is not what you see but what you make others view. The Shekhawati region of Rajasthan is home to distinctive art forms, wall paintings, and architecture. It is tucked away in the northern area of Rajasthan. A less explored tourist destination is the Shekhawati region. It is a forgotten paradise of Murals and Frescoes, leaving you gasping. The part is the most extensive open-art gallery due to its jaw-dropping art ideas & creations.

Thus I planned a weekend trip with mom since Shekhawati exploration was her choice of place. Since we discovered Haveli, I wanted to stay in one too, and I booked The Piramal Haveli in Bagar. To make an overview of the Piramal, it is a rustic Marwari Haveli with stunning Italianate structures & open gardens built in 1928. And the two pillared courtyards were painted with colourful frescoes. However, you choose other options to stay from a price range of Rs 1000 to Rs 10000.

The drive from Gurgaon to Bagar was comfortable as it was a bright sunny morning, and white fluffy clouds were floating across the sky. It was a 4 hrs drive. And we took the Rewari-Kanina-Mahendragarh road (approx 200.2 km). Since it was February month, the weather was pleasant. In summer, the temperature gets up to 50 degrees & zero degrees in winter. The climate is exceptionally harsh here as it lies in the Thar desert of Rajasthan. Since we reached Bagar late evening, we decided to explore the Haveli post a cup of tea.

Around this region, Shekhawati originated from the ‘Garden of the Shekhar’. It was established in the 18th C along the caravan trade route. Rule by the Shekhawati Rajputs. It had been the cradle for India’s wealthiest families like Birla, Poddar, Bajaj, Piramal, Goenka, and many more. Nevertheless, the wind of fortune dispersed these families’ diaspora across Rajasthan. But the marvel remains to moulder away in the Shekhawati, awaiting identification. The Shekhawati was initially split into 33 Thikana or Pargana, each with a Kuccha mud fort.

And Rao Shekha from Dhundhar was the founder of Shekhawati. He established his independent kingdom with the capital at Amritsar. However, there is also vital evidence of Shekhawati in the MaruKantar Desha period of Ramayan. As per many historians, Shekhawati was also held by the Nandas of Magadha. Yet, on the other hand, in the ancient period, it was split into several Janapadas known as the Matsya Kingdom. Shekhawati was also ruled by the Gupta dynasty & Kaimkhanis before Rajput took over.

Shekhawati region is spread over around 100 km. Hence I settled to visit Mandawa, centrally located & in Nawalgargh, whose murals & frescoes are still well-maintained & colourful. Since the night was cold, merely after a lavish dinner, we were soon asleep. And the following morning, we drove towards Mandawa. Now talking about fresco, this word can be found in Michelangelo’s “The creation of Adam”. And it is described as the art of paintings executed by natural and wet plasters. They used raw materials for their art like red stone powder, saffron, yellow clay, lamp black, lime, and dressing. And you get to witness them in traditional form in Mandawa, also known as the fort town of Shekhawati.

Thus we started to explore the fascinating, colourful & even slightly bizarre painted Haveli built to represent social status. We began with the star attraction, Golden Haveli or Jhunjhunwala Haveli, famous for gold etched in the frescoes. The inspiration for these paintings was mythology, especially Krishna, & this art fills your senses. These Murals & Frescoes walk you through the pages of history, like the Lakshmi Narayan Ladia Haveli, where you see an innovative retelling of India’s famous fable and epics.

Walking past the bylanes of Mandawa, I stopped to gape at the murals of locomotives painted to bring alive a rail journey experience or an aeroplane with a caption of Odin Wala Jahaj on the ramparts & ceilings of Mohan Sharaf Lal Haveli. I also saw many frescoes influenced by the Mughals art form & its contrast where the rare version of the Hindu trinity as a goddess at Goenka Haveli. However, Murmuria Haveli offers European architecture of marble murals with hot air balloons, cars, gramophones, or war paintings.

Most Havelis were built between 1830-1930, and I saw images of Aeroplan on Belgian glass, along with modern pattern ornaments of gods with Lapis Lazuli & gold. The imagination of the artist was vivid & expressive, which was portrayed through the frescoes & murals. You can also visit Haraklal Well, Chokhani Haveli, and Akhramka Haveli, where some are dilapidated. While returning to Bagar, we explored Jhunjhunu, the old capital & largest town in the region.

HarakLal Weill studied the Ishwardas Modi Haveli in Jhunjhunu, which has 365 windows and is the largest. Still, you can also visit the Khetri Mahal the air system works similarly to Hawa Mahal. However, the major attraction is the Rani Sati Temple, which is grand and magnificent. The rest of the evening was spent leisurely soaking in the silence of Piramal Haveli.

The Next morning after a wholesome breakfast, we headed to Nawalgarh. It is a vibrant town with the most delicate frescoes. Nawalgarh was founded by Maharaja Nawal Singh in 1674 AD and was used as a Tazimi Thikana of Jamal Ji ka Solara. At that place are many attractive few are the Aath (eight) Haveli complex, Jodhraj Patodia Haveli, Bansidhar Bhagat Haveli, Chokhani, Morarka Haveli, and Poddar Haveli.

We set out with the Morarka Haveli, where I explored some fantastic paintings, intricate murals, and artefacts of the Rajput dynasty. The Haveli showcases the various muftis prevalent in the frescoes.

On the other hand, Poddar Haveli has vibrant murals built-in 1920. It has fresco paintings depicting modern railways, the Wright Brother’s flight, and the Hindu god and goddess. The Haveli has been converted into a museum. I noticed one common fact in all Haveli: they share a familiar layout influenced by Mugal work. Most were two levels, the upper floor designed as an open balcony. Aside from this, I saw the elevated ramp and heavily decorated doors at the entrance.

Another impressive Palace was the Roop Niwas Palace, where I saw the blend of European styles with Rajput architecture. The Thakur of Nawalgarh utilised this palace but now converted it into a luxurious hotel. We end our tour with Sheesh Mahal, a tiny part of the fort still alive, showcasing the mirror work of Rajput craftsmanship. I was astounded to see the ceiling designed with the map of Nawalgarh and Jaipur.

Apart from the places I chose to explore, you can visit the below destination too, as per your plan.

1. Fatehpur: It was known as the house of royal families, and this city was decorated or designed by the royal Nawabs of Rajasthan. It was also the cultural capital of Shekhawati, with many ancient synagogues. You can visit famous places like the Dholi Sati Mandir, Nadine Cultural Centre, and Jagannath Singhania Haveli; a must-see is the Saraf Haveli, the oldest Haveli in the country, built 200 years ago. Crafted walls with murals, oil paintings, and carved wooden doors will give you an insight into our traditional lifestyle.

2. Ramgarh: This was, in one case, one of Shekhawati’s wealthiest towns. The temples are fascinating and provide a variation from the Havelis.

3. Dundlod: It’s famous for its rich culture, colours and cuisines, along with the courageous stories of princes & soldiers. You can start with Badalgarh Fort, built by Nawab Faizal Khan and now converted into a luxurious hotel. Fort of Dundlod is the best example of Mughal and Rajput architecture. However, the royal family used a significant part of this fort, and the rest was converted into a heritage hotel. Another attraction is Tuganram Goenka Haveli,  where you find paintings that depict the famous love story of Dhola-Maru.

4. Mukundgarh: This town is a renowned craft centre. Also, you’ll see one of the biggest Haveli in the region and a fort.

5. Mahansar: The lovely small town was located by the prosperous Podder family, who dealt with opium and chintz. And the two primary attractions are the Mahansar Fort, a heritage hotel. And the Sone ki Dukan (Golden Shop) with its gold-painted murals that tell the stories of Hindu mythology.

4. Alsisar: It is known as the temple town of Shekhawati. The Shekhawat Thikanedars made the Alsisar Mahal, and Thakur Gaj Singh Ji is the present owner of this Mahal. Rajput architecture designed with fresh paintings is the most attractive voice of this fort, and you can experience Rajput hospitality in this hotel. And you can also explore Kataruka Ki Haveli, Shri Lal Bahadur Mal ki Haveli, Ramjas Jhunjhunuwala ki Havelis, Lakha ka ki Havelis, Arjun Ram Khetan Havelis and Cenotaph of Thakur Chhotu Singh and lots more. More or less of these Havelis are temples too.

While driving back from home, I realised that every beautiful facade seemed to conceal rot & ruin that I could almost see. However, the Rajasthan government has banned selling these Havelis. But the lack of restoration of these ancient arts is decreasing the remaining legacy & history of that era. And the old beauty of Shekhawati is fading away with the passing years.

How to reach :

 

By Air:

The nearest airport is at Jaipur, nearly 150 km off. Taxis can be hired from Jaipur airport to reach Shekhawati.

 

By Road:

There are direct coaches from Delhi to Shekhawati. Buses for Shekhawati originate from ISBT (Kashmiri Gate), Sarai Kale Khan, or Dhaula Kuan in Delhi. All Shekhawati cities (Sikar, Churu, and Jhunjhunu) are well connected to other urban centres.

 

By Rail:

Trains are available from Delhi and Jaipur. Access to Shekhawati is most accessible from Jaipur or Bikaner. Sikar and Fatehpur are on Jaipur–Bikaner road. However, Churu is on Delhi–Bikaner railway line, while Sikar, Nawalgarh, and Jhunjhunu are in Jaipur and Delhi.