Hornbill Festival was my firsthand witnessing of the sheer magic that unfolded during this incredible celebration. With a global audience, Hornbill Festival has an exciting tagline: Festival of Festivals that carry diversity through several galas and fetes, honouring the rich tapestry that holds and binds the state. This festival has always been on my bucket list. And we say some things work themselves out without you making an effort. The Hornbill Festival of Nagaland was my travel life.
Nagaland is tucked away in one of the farthest northeastern parts of India. The word “Nagaland” literally means the land of the hospitable and friendly Nagas. It is the collective name of the 16 tribes residing in Nagaland. Nagaland celebrates its rich traditional ethos with a vivid mix of colourful attire, numerous dialects, indigenous tribes, and eclectic food. It is also inclusively embraced by its people’s friendliness.
Their vast, raw natural beauty cuts through proud tribal societies, each with distinct customs, philosophy, and history. Expectedly, the ‘Land of Festivals’ artistic diversity is carried out through several galas and fetes, honouring the rich tapestry that holds and binds the state. The dazzling folklore performances and the mouthwatering traditional cuisines left me mesmerized and longing to be a part of this unforgettable celebration again. Moreover, the Hornbill Festival has an intriguing history, whose roots trace to the indigenous tribes that call this region home. It is held in the Kisama Heritage Village of Kohima District.
The word “Hornbill” pays homage to the majestic black-and-white bird, a ‘strange’ bird with a large curved bill and excellent hearing. Although mythical legends abound about the enormous bird among Nagaland’s people, it unanimously symbolizes their love, courage, loyalty, and death. Before the advent of Christianity in Nagaland in the 18th century, animist practices were followed, and the local populace worshipped the hornbill. Often referred to as the ‘bird of paradise’, it symbolized good fortune. The sighting of the birds in winter signalled prosperity and peace. The festival brings together the diverse tribes of Nagaland with its cultural practices and distinct identity, nurturing a sense of pride and unity among its participants.
There is also an exciting story about the bird; wars were fought over the hornbill, such as the over hundred years war between the Ao tribes of the Nokrang and Longkhum villages. The virtuosity of a Naga tribesman was measured according to the bird’s death. If it fell with its tail down first, destroying the prized pattern of the feathers and preventing any use of its plume, it indicated that the hunter was a coward. In such a scenario, the feathers would pull apart and fall to the ground even if the failed hunter fitted them to his hat. However, if the bird fell with its head first and its quill intact, it implied the heroism of a huntsman who had proved he was a worthy warrior to adorn its feathers in his headgear.
I visited the 23rd Hornbill Festival in December, a 10-day cultural showcase celebrating the age-old traditions of the 16 tribes of Nagaland, including the Angami, Sumi, Chakesang, Lotha, Zeliang, Ao, Chang, Khiamniungan, and Konyak tribes, through dance, art, crafts, music, and food. It started in the year 2000 as a melting pot of cultural exchange. An exceptional mosaic draws visitors from across the globe to witness the kaleidoscope of colours, sounds, and flavours that permeate its lively atmosphere.
Nagaland is the land of folklore and fables about the brave warriors and hunters of the land. Paying homage to its many communities, Nagaland salutes its varied cultural milieu amidst great pomp and splendour through a grand parade of colour, exuberance, and festivity. The people of the Naga tribe make great efforts to preserve their morals, customs, beliefs, and traditional practices. The Hornbill Festival is celebrated to remind each other of these traditional beliefs and bask in the glory of their excellence.
I walked around the village, buzzing with drumming and the aromas of the local cuisine wafting through the air. I hopped to the tribe’s homes, which had thatched roofs. Each represents a primary tribe—built to another in an Indigenous architectural style. Each house, with its distinct symbols, wooden figures, tools, artefacts, and textiles, has ambassadors donning garments reflective of the clan.
Some structures are built in the archetypal style of houses of wealthy men with the horns of Mithun, a type of cattle considered the pride of Nagaland, adorning the roofs of the places with carved wooden panels, such as the Angami, Sumi, Chakesang, Lotha, and Zeliang tribes. The other constructions are traditional Morungs with large log drums, such as the Ao, Chang, Khiamniungan, and Konyak tribes. I had so many questions as my curiosity built up; I talked with all the tribespeople, asking about their lifestyles, attires, and headhunting days.
Originally, Nagas lived in specific tribal villages with exceptional attachment within one community. They lived and hunted in groups for survival. In an era that lacked formal education, their sole form of learning was through the Morungs, which draws a parallel with a modern-day café, where they would assemble and learn different skills from one another, including headhunting.
Each village had separate Morungs for men and women. Moreover, I learned some interesting facts about the symbols of Morung while talking to the Ao tribe. On the door, the sun and the moon are at the top. They explained it as Doni and Polo, carved out of wood, were historically worshipped by the tribe. It was also a symbol depicting a woman’s breast on one side, meaning life. It was believed to protect and help the family prosper. Several rectangular blocks below stood for the animals the men in the family hunted. On top was a skull, meaning the family was wealthy and owned several “Mithuns”. In between were carved human skulls, which stood for the human heads the men in the family had hunted.
The morning was mainly dedicated to a cultural explosion. All the critical ethnic groups dressed in their tribe’s colours, jewellery, headgear, and attire performed short dances accompanied by music and conventional instruments. Numerous played indigenous games and sports. I was awestruck to see a war dance followed by a harvest dance. In addition, you could hold your bamboo mugs and sip the rice beer that had just come from these homes.
As I strolled on the festival grounds, enveloped by this exotic old-world aura, I witnessed a way of life with supreme natural rule. Here, pride was a matter of life and death! All this comes together wonderfully, colourfully, and rhythmically at the Hornbill Festival. The evening concludes with a spectacular music concert in the stadium. Various artists perform in the offset with vibrant lights. Above all, a different assemblage of compositions ranging from folk and jazz to rock was played during each festival night.
This mountainous state, Nagaland, is known not only for its beautiful green valleys, winding pathways, serrated ridges and dense evergreen forests. But recently, it has been for the biggest and most boisterous fiesta- the Hornbill Festival. Since I did not attend the opening ceremony, I could not miss the closing ceremony. A one-hour-long cultural presentation replete with marvellous choreography, music, and costumes. After that, speeches were given by chief guests, and the lighting of the Hornbill Bonfire was lit. By the end, the Naga Unity Dance around the fire by all the tribes and dignitaries in unison.